Mastering First Gen Tacoma Long Travel Suspension

Finding detailed discussions on first generation Toyota Tacoma long travel setups is becoming increasingly difficult. This guide aims to provide a comprehensive overview and share insights into transforming a classic 1st gen Tacoma into a highly capable desert or off-road machine through long travel suspension modifications. Focusing on truck-based desert and long travel applications, we’ll delve into the specifics that enthusiasts and builders need to know.

The first generation Tacoma (1995.5-2004) remains a popular platform for off-road modifications due to its robust chassis and relatively simple design. Implementing a long travel suspension system significantly increases wheel travel, allowing the truck to absorb larger impacts and maintain better contact with uneven terrain at higher speeds. This is crucial for performance in demanding environments like deserts or rocky trails. While commercially available kits exist from reputable manufacturers, understanding the underlying principles and potential DIY approaches is invaluable for any serious builder.

Understanding Long Travel for 1st Gen Tacomas

A long travel suspension system for the front typically involves replacing the upper and lower control arms with wider, stronger components, relocating the shock mounts, and often upgrading to coilover shocks designed for extended travel. This wider stance and increased articulation dramatically improve off-road capability.

The rear suspension on a 1st gen Tacoma traditionally uses leaf springs. Converting to a long travel setup in the rear often involves custom leaf spring packs, longer shackles, and sometimes a change in mounting points or a full bed cage to accommodate longer shocks and increased travel. This requires careful planning and fabrication.

Rear Suspension Setup Details

Setting up the rear long travel suspension, particularly with custom leaf springs and shackles, involves several critical fabrication steps. One common approach utilizes 64-inch leaf springs combined with longer shackles (such as 12-inch shackles) to achieve significant rear wheel travel.

Here is a breakdown of the process based on experienced modifications:

1. Axle Spring Perch Relocation: Begin by welding new spring perches to the bottom of the axle housing. If keeping the stock axle, position the axle on jack stands with the factory perches facing downwards. Use a digital level to set the factory perches to 0 degrees, parallel to the ground. Place the new perches on top of the axle, ensuring they are the same distance from the axle flange as the original perches. Set the new perches to 0 degrees (parallel to the factory ones). Tack the new perches securely in all four corners, verifying they will not shift. Reinstall the axle under the truck and connect the driveshaft.

2. Leaf Spring Preparation and Front Hanger Placement: Disassemble the leaf spring pack, keeping only the main leaf and the military wrap leaf. Reinstall the center bolt and secure the modified spring pack to the newly tacked axle perches using U-bolts. A block of wood can temporarily replace the removed leafs to allow using the same U-bolts for suspension cycling. Bolt the front spring hanger to the leaf spring. With the axle centered, compress the suspension to full bump against the frame where the factory bump stops are located. Swing the leaf spring assembly so the new front hanger touches the bottom of the frame. A common guideline suggests the center of the front hanger bolt hole should be approximately 1 inch forward of the rear-most vertical edge of the rear cab mount. Tack the front hanger in place.

Rear suspension components on a modified 1st gen Toyota Tacoma

3. Shackle Mounting and Geometry: Bolt the shackle to the leaf spring, ensuring the upper bushing assembly is installed. Position the upper bushing sleeve on top of the frame. To prevent the spring eye from contacting the frame at full compression, placing a 1/4-inch spacer between the bottom of the frame and the eye of the leaf spring is recommended. Tack the bushing sleeve to the top of the frame, assuming you are utilizing 12-inch shackles. Measure the distance from the front spring hanger bolt to the bolt on the upper shackle bushing assembly. Based on collective experience, a measurement of around 53 inches from the front spring hanger bolt to the top shackle pivot point is considered ideal for proper suspension geometry.

Detailed view of rear suspension components on a 1st gen Tacoma

Once everything is tacked securely on both sides of the vehicle, cycle the suspension through its full range of motion. During this process, carefully check that the pinion angle remains acceptable throughout the travel, ensuring no components interfere with each other, and confirming everything is properly centered. After verifying the basic setup, you can proceed to cycling the shocks.

Shock Mounting Considerations

Shock mounting requires careful planning to maximize performance and avoid binding. A useful technique involves clamping a piece of plywood to the frame near the intended shock location. With the lower shock end bolted to tabs on the axle, cycle the suspension from full compression to full droop. At full bump, compress the shock leaving approximately 1/2 inch of shaft showing (zip ties around the shaft can help monitor this). Mark an arc on the plywood using a marker through the upper shock mounting hole. Then, drop the axle to full droop, fully extending the shock, and mark another arc. The intersection of these two arcs represents the ideal location for your upper shock mount, providing optimal shock travel utilization.

Remember to consider the location of the stock fuel tank when mounting shocks; leaning them towards the rear might be necessary for clearance, especially before considering a fuel cell. The angle and position of the lower shock tabs on the axle are critical for ensuring the shock is in compression during axle rotation under load. If shocks are leaned backward, lower tabs should be between 9 and 12 o’clock when viewed from the driver’s side; if leaned forward, tabs should be between 6 and 9 o’clock.

Rear shocks and long travel setup components

4. Shock Hoop/Bedcage Fabrication: Once the ideal shock mounting locations are determined, you can begin fabricating the shock hoops or bedcage structure to support the upper shock mounts. Tack the upper mounts in place and cycle the suspension again with the leafs stripped down (as in step 2) to confirm sufficient clearance throughout the travel. After verifying fitment and clearance, fully weld all fabricated components.
5. Final Assembly and Limit Straps: Reassemble the full leaf spring packs and bolt everything back together. Droop the suspension completely, then compress it by about 2 inches. At this point, mount your limit straps. The straps should be taut at this slightly compressed position, ensuring they prevent the shock from fully extending and potentially damaging itself at full droop.

Achieving a well-tuned First Gen Tacoma Long Travel setup requires attention to detail and careful fabrication. Following a systematic approach ensures proper geometry, maximum usable travel, and component longevity. While this guide provides a framework, consulting resources from reputable builders and forums can offer additional perspectives and troubleshooting tips. best places to travel in september for couples

Front view of a modified 1st gen Toyota Tacoma with long travel suspension

In conclusion, undertaking a long travel conversion on a 1st gen Tacoma is a significant project that yields impressive off-road performance gains. The detailed steps outlined here, particularly concerning the rear leaf spring setup and shock mounting, provide a solid foundation for builders looking to enhance their truck’s capabilities for challenging terrains. Careful planning, precise fabrication, and thorough cycling of the suspension are key to a successful outcome.